If the Taj Mahal falls silent one morning, will Agra go quiet too? No. Then, perhaps for the first time, the city will speak in its true voice, amid the clang of artisans' hammers, the haggling in markets, the aroma from halwais' kiosks, and the verses of poets. The Taj Mahal is Agra's crown jewel, but Agra isn't just the Taj; it's a thriving, living civilisation.
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